Chanel haute couture spring summer 2021
La collezione Chanel per la Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture per la prossima primavera estate 2021 è stata presentata al Grand Palais di Parigi, dimora tanto cara alla maison francese.
Per effetto della pandemia ancora in atto, l’evento si è svolto in digitale, eccezion fatta per alcune celebrities da Penelope Cruz, a Vanessa Paris e l’incantevole Principessa di Monaco Charlotte Casiraghi, che è la nuova ambasciatrice di Chanel.
Tutte ovviamente vestite rigorosamente, come la tradizione vuole, di nero.
L’intento di Virginie Viard, attuale direttore artistico della maison di lusso in seguito alla morte del suo ex direttore, Karl Lagerfeld, è un inno alla festa, al matrimonio.
Il regista olandese Anton Corbijn ha realizzato un vero e proprio film, un vero matrimonio, come la “cerimonia delle cerimonie”.
Da un tendone bianco, come quello del circo, le modelle arrivano in una sorta di giardino dove ci sono intorno delle sedie con poche invitate, pieno di petali sparsi per terra.
Proprio perchè la collezione vuole celebrare un matrimonio tutti gli abiti sono estremamente eleganti, perchè proprio in quell’occasione speciale l’eleganza è l’ingrediente principale.
Sfilano i tailleur, tanto caro a Mademoiselle Coco.
Abiti da cocktail, le gonne a balze, vere protagoniste della sfilata, pantaloni in tweed, mini abiti con una grande coda di tulle, pantaloni con la fascia laterale in paillettes o cristalli, abiti in chiffon con le ruches.
Gli accessori sono floreali da posare come un cerchietto sui capelli, come la scenografia.
Quasi al termine della sfilata alcune modelle si siedono cogliendo una camelia, il fiore preferito di Coco, come delle vere invitate a una cerimonia, ed entra una incantevole sposa su un cavallo bianco accompagnata dal suo cavaliere.
La modella indossa un lungo abito da sposa , ispirato agli anni Venti, made in Chanel, in raso con strascico, ricamato con strass, farfalle di perle e decorato da un colletto ad ali e polsini come quelli di una camicia.
Una vera poesia.
Il video all’inizio e alla fine è in bianco e nero, ma si tinge come per magia di colori sfavillanti, di luci, di speranza e di rinascita.
La gente ha bisogno in questo periodo di vedere il bello, di tornare alla bella vita, di fare festa, di sognare.
Ha detto Virginie Vard:
”sapevo che non avremmo potuto organizzare una grande sfilata, che avremmo dovuto inventare qualcos’altro, così mi è venuta l’idea di un piccolo corteo che scendesse dalle scale del Grand Palais e passasse sotto archi di fiori. Come una festa di famiglia, un matrimonio”.
di Virginia D’Amico
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture 2020
La Settimana della Moda di Parigi 2020 autunno/inverno e primavera/estate si svolgerà nelle seguenti date:
- Men: dal 14 al 19 gennaio 2020
- Haute Couture: dal 20 al 23 gennaio 2020
- Women: dal 24 febbraio al 3 marzo 2020
- Men: dal 23 al 28 giugno 2020
- Haute Couture: dal 5 al 9 luglio 2020
- Women: dal 28 settembre al 6 ottobre 2020
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