Field Jacket: il capospalla stile militare che ha fatto storia
I capispalla del guardaroba maschile rappresentano un mondo fatto di indumenti storici, di tendenza e iconici, consacrati da chi li ha indossati o dalle loro origini.
Quanti sanno cosa sia esattamente una field jacket?
Le field jacket hanno un’origine militare. Il suo design funzionale, caratterizzato da doppie tasche sul petto e doppie tasche sui fianchi, tutte con chiusura a patta, l’ha resa una scelta pratica per i soldati.
Oltre alle tasche distinte, il suo materiale robusto ma leggero lo rendeva ideale da indossare per i soldati britannici che si trovano nel clima caldo dell’India.
Anni dopo, la field jacket M-43, indossata dai soldati durante la Prima Guerra Mondiale, era destinata a mantenere i soldati al caldo e all’asciutto.
Più lunga e con cappuccio, ma anche più stretta ai fianchi per adattarsi meglio al campo di battaglia.
Successivamente si è passati alla field jacket M-65, indossata durante la guerra del Vietnam e destinata anche a proteggere i soldati americani durante la stagione dei monsoni.
Si caratterizzava in particolare per il suo colore verde oliva, le tasche anteriori allungate, le controspalline e il design con cappuccio.
Modello diverso dal classico camouflage, la M65 è leggera, spesso realizzata con un misto cotone e nylon, e dotata di quattro tasche sul davanti, il cui scopo era consentire ai soldati di portare le munizioni, anche senza essere appesantiti dallo zaino.
La M65 fu caratterizzata fin da subito da innovazioni come il velcro, i bottoni interni per aggiungere la fodera e il collo convertibile, adatto a nascondere il cappuccio.
Dettagli importanti, che hanno reso la M65 una giacca multitasche davvero iconica, oltre a un capo davvero adatto ad accompagnare i soldati sul campo.
Le field jackets in un tono cammello o terra divennero popolari in quanto il modello fu poi indossato nel continente africano. Divenne un capo d’elezione per i cacciatori e per i safari, offrendo mimetismo, funzionalità e traspirabilità nel caldo africano.
Una delle innovazioni principali, fu la silhouette più strutturata, perfetta per consentire di indossare anche un abbigliamento più pesante e affrontare le temperature più rigide.
Una combinazione vincente, che ha reso il design della Field Jacket immortale, tanto che sono stati apportati minuscoli cambiamenti nel corso degli anni e solo nel 2009 questa giacca è stata ritirata.
La M65, però, non è stata solo una giacca da soldato, ma anche il simbolo dell’antimilitarismo durante gli anni della Guerra del Vietnam, indossato da molti attivisti degli anni Settanta, tra cui personaggi del calibro di John Lennon e Jane Fonda.
Lo scopo era semplice: indossare questa giacca per onorare tutti i ragazzi inviati in guerra a morire.
Dalle strade e dalle proteste, il passo verso Hollywood fu breve. Oltre a Robert De Niro in Taxy Driver, infatti, il cinema ha immortalato Al Pacino, Woody Allen e Arnold Schwarzenegger con indosso versioni nuove, colorate e personalizzate della Field Jacket.
Il design della field jacket è passato dalle zone militari al mondo della moda grazie in gran parte allo stilista Yves Saint Laurent. Il leggendario stilista ha portato alla fama lo stile militare e safariistico negli anni Sessanta. Questo stile di successo divenne una grande tendenza. Fu poi reso ancora più popolare sia dagli importanti uomini di Hollywood che dai personaggi del grande schermo, tra cui James Bond.
La field jacket moderna rimane fedele alla sua originale estetica funzionale con il collo button-down, le molteplici tasche frontali con chiusura a pattina e il tessuto robusto ma leggero che la rendono il capo outdoor perfetto per il clima variabile, in particolare nella stagione primaverile e autunnale.
Ma come si dovrebbe portare una field jacket e come si può indossare?
Quando si tratta di vestibilità, si vuole che la field jacket stia abbastanza aderente al proprio corpo. Tuttavia, non deve essere troppo attillata, soprattutto se indossata chiusa, ma neanche troppo larga o voluminosa. Dovrebbe starti comoda, permettendoti di muoverti, con la possibilità di indossare altri strati sotto di essa, senza sembrare troppo voluminosa o ingombrante.
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