Tailleur: tutti i modelli che hanno fatto la storia della moda
Appena si nomina il tailleur l’immagine che si insinua nella mente è quella di un classico completo composto da giacca e gonna indossato da una donna della buona società.
Serioso, misurato, conformista. Un’immagine stereotipata che sicuramente per molto tempo ha corrisposto a verità. Ma che in alcuni casi non coglie completamente tutte le sfumature di quest’abito dalla storia lunga e complessa. In principio ci fu Redfern, sarto inglese fondatore dell’azienda omonima che aveva tra le sue clienti la regina Vittoria e che realizzò nel 1885 il primo tailleur per la principessa del Galles. Mutuato dall’abbigliamento maschile e riservato alle occasioni meno formali, questo completo ebbe successo grazie alla praticità e alla comodità. E fu forse il primo passo sartoriale verso l’emancipazione femminile.
TIPPI HEDREN IN TAILLEUR SUL SET DI MARNI, 1964. FOTO, GETTY
Il tailleur dagli Anni 40 ai 60
Da allora ne ha fatta di strada il tailleur. Con il passare dei decenni ha visto la sua gonna accorciarsi e allungarsi a fase alterne. Dalle lunghezze rasoterra degli esordi fino a quelle ultra mini sfoggiate negli Anni ’60 dalle it-girl come Twiggy e Jean Shrimpton. Passando per le eroine affascinanti del cinema hollywoodiano. Ci sono stati i modelli rigorosi degli Anni 40 sfoggiati dalle dive dei film noir come Lauren Bacall. E quelli pastello dalle linee pulite delle protagoniste dei film di Alfred Hitchcock nei 50 e 60, Tippi Hedren e Grace Kelly su tutte.
TAILLEUR TOTAL WHITE CON MINIGONNA NEL 1969. FOTO, GETTY
Ma se c’è un tailleur che è davvero diventato iconico è quello che Coco Chanel portò alla ribalta come nuova divisa della vita quotidiana della donna indipendente. Dalla versione in jersey ideata in tempo di guerra fino alla più celebre in tweed. Con tanto di bottoni gioiello e catenella metallica cucita nell’orlo interno della giacca per un aplomb perfetto. Come non pensare in questo caso a quello rosa dell’allora first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, tristemente passato alla storia perché indossato nel 1963, il giorno in cui fu assassinato suo marito.
GABRIELLE CHANEL NEL SUO APPARTAMENTO DI RUE CAMBON A PARIGI NEL 1959. FOTO, GETTY
Dagli Anni 70 fino ai giorni nostri
Se gli Anni 70 hanno visto trionfare il tailleur pantalone grazie a nomi come Yves Saint Laurent e Halston, è negli 80 che il modello originale con gonna torna a spopolare, spaziando con la massima libertà tra borghesia e nobiltà. In Gran Bretagna fanno tendenza i modelli rigorosi di Margaret Thatcher e quelli colorati di Lady Diana. In America il mito della donna in carriera vestita in giacca dalle spalle importanti e gonna affusolata coordinata spopola. E viene rappresentato in maniera aspirazionale da film come Una donna in carriera con Melanie Griffith. E in Italia? Creatori di moda come Armani, Versace e Valentino elaborano negli anni le varianti più disparate del tailleur. Minimale, maschile, sensuale, prezioso, trasgressivo. Fino a farlo arrivare ai giorni nostri, ancora d’impatto. Pronto per essere rivisitato nelle forme e nelle proporzioni dalle griffe contemporanee.
LADY DIANA IN TAILLEUR NEL 1997. FOTO, GETTY
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